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A Greece for all seasons: my autumn roadtrip through the Peloponnese

An out-of-season journey through the peninsula reveals Byzantine villages, deserted beaches and friendly tavernas As I drove across the causeway which links the tiny fortress island of Monemvasia to the south-eastern coast of the Peloponnese, the Aegean sparkling on all sides, I recalled a line by Yiannis Ritsos, one of Greece’s greatest 20th-century poets. Ritsos lived in Monemvasia, in a house that is today a museum on a cobble-stretch by the tawny castle walls. A favourite passage goes: “The voyage is neither a leave-taking nor a home-coming – an ethereal bridge …” The excuse for my trip to the Peloponnese’s deep south – Messinia, the Mani, and Laconia – fell between those two ideas. My mother has roots in the Peloponnese – a sort-of homecoming that I’ve long wanted to explore – and with the summer over and greedy for an adventure to myself, I set out by car, leaving Kalamata, the leafy port city and gateway to the area, on a coastal road circuit. Continue reading...

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‘A haven of soft light, warm sunshine and sandy beaches’: readers’ favourite autumn escapes

In search of autumn festivals, good food and islands where it still feels like summer? We asked you to recommend your best off-season breaks • Tell us about a spooky spot in the UK – the best tip wins a £200 holiday voucher Last October, while I was cycling around south-west France, near the Spanish border, a tip from a local waiter led me to Collioure , near Perpignan. The town was like a Mediterranean dream, where the summer crowds had faded, leaving behind a peaceful, artistic haven of soft light, warm sunshine, cobbled streets, sandy beaches – and the Pyrenees as a backdrop. In the early evening, the still balmy autumn air was perfect for wandering through the quiet, pastel-coloured alleyways of the Le Mouré district to enjoy €5 off-season happy hour wine with fish tapas. I had planned to stay a weekend but ended up staying a week, seduced by Collioure’s perfect autumn cocktail of chilled Catalan culture and sunkissed seaside sensuality. April Continue reading...

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